Getting street tree selection right

According to recent research into what makes a suburb appealing, good street trees are one of the main differences between a good suburb with strong house prices and a less desirable place to live. Quite simply people equate green, leafy streets with prosperity and good living.

However, many of the gracious trees that line the streets in our most desirable suburbs would not be planted today. Trees such as poplars, elms and plane trees or jacarandas and poincianas in warmer climates, that werefavoured by town planners of yesteryear, are now seen as too big and offering too many potential maintenance problems to be suitable to plant today.

Many of these trees are no longer selected for street planting and others are being removed and replaced with different species as they reach the end of their lifespans.

Elms for example, which survive in streets and parks in southern Australia, are seen as a ticking time bomb as these trees have been devastated by Dutch elm disease in most other parts of the world. So far, although we have the vector that spreads the disease (the elm leaf beetle), we don’t yet have the pathogen in Australia.
Even street trees widely planted in recent years are being reassessed for their long-term suitability. In more recent times the pyramidal shape of the Bradford pear saw it being widely planted city and suburban streets. While these now mature trees do look spectacular, especially in spring blossom and autumn leaf colour, they present maintenance problems as the variety chosen, although ornamental, does produce small fruits that form a slip hazard on pavements in summer and autumn. As well, its branches were often subject to wind damage and splitting.

Some factors that make large, spreading trees so problematic for use as street trees can be overcome with planning and careful management. Underground or bundled overhead wires and broad planting strips to accommodate the tree’s growing roots and water needs are necessary for safely growing and maintaining large, spreading street trees.

Where these demands can’t be met, those making street tree planting choices need to select tree varieties that can live in harmony with the street and its users with minimum maintenance.

Ideal street tree

The ideal street tree from a maintenance point of view is one that has a tall, straight trunk that spreads its branches above head height. It needs to be tolerant of pruning, resistant to drought and pollution, and must also be neat and tidy in its habit.

This means no dangerous fruits and potentially slippery flowers, twigs, bark or branches to drop on the pavement or street below. Root systems should also be safe, not highly invasive and not prone to suckering. In many areas native trees are demanded for public plantings. These are usually evergreen trees.

From an aesthetic point of view, street trees need to create an appealing street view, which is accentuated by uniform growth and size. The choice of a named variety rather than a species usually delivers on this need for uniformity.

A good street tree should also provide shade for both pedestrians and parked cars, and offer interest to the street scene for example from their flowers, leaves or bark.

When assessment is made of trees for their potential use in street plantings the number of truly suitable species and varieties drops considerably when all criteria are met.

Selected varieties

All tree growers are on the hunt for tree varieties that will deliver as street trees looking at both traditional and non-traditional choices. Improved forms of traditional trees can allow historic plantings to be replanted to recreate a landscape that is in keeping with the heritage of a particular street. For example, they hybrid, rust-resistant poplar ‘Veronese’ may have a role in replacing aged and diseased poplars in commemorative avenue plantings.

In new suburbs, or where heritage concerns don’t shape tree selection, planners and horticulturists will be happy to discover that there are named cultivars that suit street tree planting across Australia.

To meet current specifications for trees (currently under review), plants grown for street trees should have a clear trunk to at least 1.8m, produce little or no fruit, have strong branches and good tolerance to climate extremes and soil variation.

When selecting individual plants look for those grown for street-tree planting by a reputable nursery. Look for plants that have been root managed and show no sign of movement in the container and have a good tapered trunk.

Below we have listed our ‘Top choices for street planting’.

These tree selections are also well suited for use to line avenues or walkways in parks and gardens or to choose for driveways in domestic landscapes.

Gardening to Survive Water Restrictions

Australians have become very creative, in finding ways to have a green garden even in times of water restrictions. In this article, you will find ideas which can help you create green spaces that can survive most current and future water restrictions, including useful tips such as; grey water systems, water tanks, no irrigation gardening plants, best mulch types, best turf varieties and more.

We can not wait for governments to provide us with water for gardens, so the best thing to do is organise our own supply. This can be achieved through water tanks, or even better, grey water systems. Water tanks are easily found, and information is widely available. The main thing to consider is that small tanks don’t offer a good long term solution. Put in larger tanks, as water in smaller tanks can be quickly used up in times of drought. There are now some good sized tanks that come in many shapes and sizes, from those that are thin and narrow, to those that fit under the house, to stylish tanks that become part of the landscape. Any tank less than 4000 litres is a little small to provide a good back up water supply. If space is limited, install a few smaller tanks in sequence to make up the volume needed.

The information available on Grey water systems is a lot more confusing, so I have tried to gather information on 3 good systems that seem to work, and are easy to organise to be installed. If possible forget the small installations that just divert water from washing machines, as the amount of water is so negligible. Only about 50% of existing homes can have storage grey water systems installed, so if feasible it is better to do it at the time of building. Basically, houses on stumps, or a reasonable amount of two storey houses on slabs can have their waste water split into Grey Water (From showers, taps, and laundry other than kitchen waste or toilets), and Black Water (From Kitchen waste and toilets). The black water is sent down the sewerage, and the grey water is recycled and stored with these systems. I would suggest only using systems that produce class A or Class A+ water, so that storage is allowed. Water storage is essential, if a long term solution to water restriction is to be found. A good grey water recycling systems that use biological processes is the AquaReviva sytem. Both can clean and store up to 1500 litres of water per day, although most families only make about 500 litres of grey water in a day. Systems like these cost about $10000 or more. A lot of money, but this could be a gardener’s ticket to freedom from water restrictions. Older single story houses on concrete slabs can rarely be split into the 2 water categories needed for grey water recycling. This is where the recent invention of the Econova comes in. This system recycles both Black and Grey Water into A+ class water, good enough to drink. However, as usual our governments are moving slowly on this issue. In non sewered areas, this system is allowed for Black Water recycling in Queensland and NSW, but nowhere has it been approved for use in sewered areas. So our governments say, ‘you can not water your gardens with our water, and only about half of homes can in practical terms recycle their waste water.’ Typical bureaucracy! I know this technology has only been available since November 2006, but time is of the essence here. It is time governments got a move on. Apparently Victoria, and South Australia are looking at it at the moment. See Econova .

Now that your landscape has guaranteed access to water, through a non government water supply, you can consider your landscape; firstly, for a choice between lawn and garden. The truth is that mainly native gardens, use about the same water as lawns. The University of Western Sydney recently published a study which showed primarily native gardens used 4.7 kL of water/100m2/month, whilst warm season turf such as Kikuyu, Buffalo, and Couch used 4.3 kL of water/100m2/month. Primarily exotic gardens used 8.7 kL of water/100m2/month, approximately twice as much as lawns and native gardens.

Lawns such as Palmetto Buffalo, or particularly Empire Turf can be extremely drought tolerant compared to water hungry lawns such as Fescue and Rye Grass. Native Dianellas like Little Rev, Little Jess, Tasred, and Cassa Blue, and Lomandras such as Tanika and Nyalla are so tough, that in the eastern states they thrive on no irrigation at all. If you want more water hungry plants, keep them to one small area of the garden so as to not waste a lot of water.

Mulch is another great water saving device, but beware, some mulches will actually reduce the amount of water available for plants. Basically, good chunky mulches, with no or very small amounts of fine particles help retain water, and work well. Mulch with a high proportion of fine grade material; have in research sponsored by Yates, shown that they can actually repel water, making a garden dryer.

Shade around a garden can reduce evaporation. This can be either from a few well placed trees, or a garden that is densely planted, with few gaps. The vegetation covered areas, will be cooler, and allow for much slower drying out of the soil, especially if the right plants are used. Having fewer gravel or concrete areas, and more greenery will also keep landscaped areas cooler, again reducing garden dry out.

For both lawns and gardens, make sure at least every spring, a wetting agent is applied. Dry patch in plants and turf, is in my opinion the greatest reason why drought tough plants and turf fail in patches. Aerate lawns in spring, to reduce compaction. Mow lawns a little longer in the hot months. When watering a lawn or a native type garden, water infrequently, but heavily. EG; In hot summer months, if it has not rained for a while, save the water in your tank for one or two good waters, rather than lots of small waters. (In sandy soil areas such as Perth, more frequent watering maybe necessary). Avoid watering in the heat of the day, so as to maximize the water getting into the ground. If you need to hand water, split the garden and lawn into 4 sections. Water each section more heavily less frequently. Remember; secure your water supply, choose plants and turf that need less water, and use smart water wise maintenance techniques.

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Encore Azaleas – The Best Azaleas for Australia

Everybody who enjoys the spring blooming of Azaleas can now delight in an explosion of colour season after season with the Encore Azalea range. They have established a reputation in the plant industry like no other Azalea and are the world’s best-selling re-blooming Azalea.

Encore Azaleas bloom cycle generally begins in spring as with other Azalea varieties, but as other Azaleas start losing their flowers for the year, Encore Azaleas are busy setting new buds for a second bloom and then often again for a third time. These amazing Azaleas produce beautiful vibrant flowers for on average 3 seasons a year (spring, summer and autumn) and also boast evergreen foliage, so even in winter these Azaleas won’t look barren.

Another feature that makes Encore Azaleas the most popular Azaleas in the world is the large array of colours they come in; from the most impressive deep red/orange through to breath-taking fuchsia and purple, there are even varieties that have striped and/or flecked flowers.

But it is not just the fact that Encore Azaleas have more flowers more often that makes them the best Azaleas for Australia, they are also more heat, drought and frost tolerant, which are important qualities for plants in Australia. There are also 2 varieties that are lace bug resistant.

Encore Azaleas are ideal for specimen planting, mass planting, as a border plant, as a feature plant and remarkably can even be used as a hedging plant.

Autumn Royalty™ and Autumn Twist™ are the 2 varieties that are both lace bug resistant. Both are super heat tolerant, heavy frost tolerant and once established for a year are remarkably drought tolerant. These are two of very few Azaleas that are suitable for commercial landscape planting. Autumn Royalty™ has masses of gorgeous fuchsia blooms in spring, summer and autumn that are up to 80mm in diameter. Autumn Twist™ has spectacular light pink flowers with fuchsia stripes and flecks that bloom in spring, summer and autumn. Either of these Azaleas would make a stunning feature in any garden.

Autumn Carnivale™ is a heat tolerant repeat bloomer that has its heaviest bloom in summer. It has beautiful medium pink blooms with dark green foliage. Autumn Empress™ produces brilliant semi-double pink blooms with superb dark green foliage. It is heat tolerant, is a repeat bloomer and has its heaviest blooms during summer.

Autumn Princess™ has incredible semi-double pink flowers but what makes it distinct is its foliage, which turns burgundy during winter. It is a heat tolerant repeat bloomer and has its heaviest bloom in summer. Autumn Starlite™ is a repeat bloomer that has unique white flowers with vibrant fuchsia flecks and on occasion fuchsia stripes. It is heat tolerant and has its heaviest bloom in summer.

Autumn Cheer™ and Autumn Amethyst™ both have their heaviest flowering during autumn and spring. Autumn Cheer™ is heat tolerant, compact, low growing dwarf azalea with single rose pink blooms that are up to 40mm in diameter. Autumn Amethyst™ has impressive purple flowers that are up to 50mm in diameter. It has a dense spreading habit and shiny green foliage that colours purple in winter.

Autumn Ruby™ is a heat tolerant repeat bloomer that peaks in autumn and spring. It has fantastic lipstick pink semi-double blooms that are up to 50mm in diameter. Autumn Bravo™ has impressive strong orange/red single blooms that repeat bloom and peak in autumn and spring, it is also heat tolerant.
Autumn Embers™ and Autumn Monarch™ are both heat tolerant and bloom in spring, summer and autumn. Autumn Embers™ has a dense spreading habit with rich deep red-orange semi-double blooms that are up to 60mm in diameter. Autumn Monarch™ has unique upright semi-double ruffled coral blooms that are up to 75mm in diameter with bright shiny foliage.

Autumn Coral™ has as the name suggests, stunning coral coloured blooms that are up to 60mm in diameter. It is a repeat bloomer that peaks in autumn and spring and is also heat tolerant.

Encore Azaleas make a multi-season flowering landscape a reality, with varieties ranging in colour, size and seasonal bloom time, why settle for an Azalea that only flowers in spring when you can have a variety of azaleas that flower for much of the year.

Why not let Encore Azaleas be the star of your garden!

Easy Care Flowering Plants

A garden with flowers is both joyful and rewarding, and has always been popular. Modern gardeners often perceive growing flowers as time consuming or difficult and opt for gardens with very few flowers in an effort to create low maintenance gardens. In actuality it is not the presence of flowers that makes a garden low or high maintenance but the choice of which flowers to grow. There are many easy care flowering plants available which allow us to have a garden which can be both low maintenance and colourful.

Often we associate flowers with annual flowering plants. These do require additional care in terms of water, fertiliser and regular replacement as they are short lived. Flowers can be far more reliably grown in our gardens using perennials, shrubs and even flowering trees if your garden is large enough. There are even many low maintenance ground covers which flower spectacularly. The huge hot pink flowers of the native pigface Aussie Rambler™ Carpobrotus glaucescens ‘CAR10’ PBR will add an abundance of flowers to gardens almost anywhere in Australia and will thrive with almost no care.

When choosing flowering plants which will be low maintenance and easy care, old fashioned garden favourites are often popular. Petunias, geraniums and salvias are all very easy care flowering plants which can fill tough spaces with an abundance of flowers. Wherever possible look for new improved forms which offer improved flowering and most importantly will remain smaller, more compact and will require significantly less pruning to remain neat in small gardens.

Gazanias are very popular ground covers which have large bold flowers throughout the warmer months. Double Gold™ Gazania hybrid ‘GT20’ PBRis the only gazania available which is completely sterile and will not spread via seed to become a bushland weed. It is also a very high performer having almost twice as many flowers as non hybrid gazanias, with exceptionally little care.

Some of the other old fashioned favourites also have the potential to become bushland weeds, so low seeding varieties should be selected where possible. Agapanthus are now available in low seed varieties. For a splash of something different in small spaces, try the mid sized Agapanthus orientalis ‘Cloudy Days’ PBR. This variety also features excellent disease resistance, making it an ideal easy care flowering plant for most Australian gardens. The Queen Mum™ Agapanthus orientalis ‘PMN06’ PBR is similar but much larger.

Other very popular and low care flowering strappy leafed plants are the Dietes. Grand Star™ Dietes grandiflora ‘Di1’ PBR offers a low seeding compact variety of the white and Fine Divine™ Dietes bicolor ‘Di2’ PBR offers a low seeding compact variety of the yellow Dietes. These plants will need less care to remain neat in a small garden than will the common varieties, and will not spread via seed to become weeds.

Rhaphiolepis have long been garden favourites for their extreme hardiness and long flowering times. They have a tendency to get overly large and the seeds are spread by birds. 2 new low seeding (female infertile) varieties are now available, both of these varieties are exempt from the Rhaphiolepis ban in NSW. For those who would prefer a small plant needing less pruning, Cosmic Pink™ Rhaphiolepis indica ‘RAPH02’ PBRfeatures an abundance of pink flowers on a compact plant growing to only 80cm. Cosmic White™ Rhaphiolepis indica ‘RAPH01’ PBR is bullet proof and grows just about anywhere, this is larger than the Cosmic Pink™ plant, growing to between 1.5 and 2 metres high. These easy care plants are not only long flowering and need very little pruning to maintain a neat shape, they are also hardy under even extreme weather conditions.

Many Australian natives are seen as low care but potentially messy and not amongst the tidiest flowering plants. Many new varieties are available which provide exactly the opposite – tough, easy care plants which are neat and compact and flower abundantly. The abundant bright red bottle brush flowers of Macarthur™ Callistemon viminalis ‘LC01’ PBR make it a perfect plant for fence line planting or hedging in low maintenance gardens. Growing only to 1.8m it can offer privacy without needing constant pruning. Another compact and tidy native growing to approximately the same height is Coastal Pink™ Correa alba ‘COR10’ PBR with abundant pale pink bell shaped flowers which attract the birds.

Meema™ Hardenbergia violacea ‘HB1’ PBR and Mini Meema™ Hardenbergia violacea ‘HB2’ PBR are two varieties of native ground cover which offer a denser more compact form than the common one, and dramatically improved flowers. These very easy care natives will provide masses of bright purple pea shaped flowers in later winter and early spring for a very eye catching and colourful display.

Grevilleas also provide an abundance of flowers for an easy care garden. By choosing ones which grow only to the size which suits the garden, grevilleas and other natives can be very reliable and low care plants which provide an abundance of flowers for the garden and attract wildlife as well. A light annual prune after flowering will be all that these plants then need to remain compact and bushy and flower well year after year.

Crimson Villea™ Grevillea rosmarinifolia ‘H16’ PBR has shown itself to be one the world’s showiest winter flowering plants. This compact grevillea grows to a neat 80 x 80cm and covers itself in masses of crimson flowers from Autumn into spring. It is very hardy, tolerating drought, frost and moderate humidity – the perfect plant for easy care flower gardens.

Look for increased disease resistance when choosing low care flowering plants. While many natives  can already be very disease resistant, not all are. The Velvet Range of kangaroo paws offers increased black spot resistance, making them easier to care for.

Some of the old garden favourites are also prone to diseases that require extra care – care that can be eliminated by selecting varieties bred for increased disease resistance. Always choose roses which are black spot resistant. Azaleas have been highly successful in many neglected gardens, however new varieties offer not only increased flowering and increased drought tolerance but also lace bug resistance which makes them far more attractive a choice for easy care flower gardens. Autumn Royalty™ Rhododendron hybrid ‘CONLEC’ PBR and Autumn Twist™ Rhododendron hybrid ‘CONLEP’ PBR are two varieties of azalea which are both heat and cold tolerant, have increased flowering and repeat blooming throughout the year and are highly resistant to lace bug and petal blight. These are all qualities which make for very easy care flowering plants, so that even low maintenance gardens can be full of vibrant flowers.

Playgrounds Set To Increase Green Space

With 202020 vision enhancing the awareness and the importance of increasing green space, and new research and technology now allowing green life in fall zones, playgrounds are about to become a greener solution.

Until recently fall zones in playgrounds were not allowed to utilise live plants and turf. Now new testing has shown that certain live plants and turf meet fall zone requirements of the Australian Standard AS/NZ4422:1996.

Plants grown in soft fall mulch had a minimum Critical Fall Height of 3.4m and turf grown in Living soft fall had critical fall height of 4 metres, which is far superior to industry standards, and requirements of playground equipment manufacturers.

Keeping kids safe has meant high regulation of surrounding surfaces adjacent to playground equipment. Up until now, only non-green life technologies have bothered to undertake the expensive testing to confirm whether those surfaces meet fall zone requirements. For example for swings this often means surfaces must be safe for kids to fall 2.2 metres.

Recent research has resulted in Critical Fall Height reports which prove that certain green life is safe and complies with the Australian Standard, which now allows green life to be used in playground surfacing. The use of plants in playground surfacing has won a KidSafe award for Innovative Design Elements. Prior to this research only mulch, artificial turf, and a various array of rubber type products met the standards.

Landscape Architects and Designers have embraced the 202020 vision, to increase green space by 20 percent by 2020. Now that live plants and turf are allowed again in play grounds, they have another tool to increase the percentage of green life in the landscape.

Increased green life has the obvious advantages of cooling our cities, increasing oxygen production, and the increase in health and wellbeing of people. Green infrastructure enhances the healthiness, liveability and sustainability of urban environments. Many studies around the world have confirmed the benefits to humans of being in touch with nature, so why have our children in playgrounds been ignored until now?

Basically there has been no financial interest in having green life certified as a viable playground surface.

 It is a costly and time consuming process, with most certification being done by the manufacturer of playground surfaces. It has been in the domain of private enterprise to have their products certified. Profit margins on plants and turf are far lower than other surfaces, so they have been largely ignored until now.

Children who are exposed to scenes of nature while exercising are more likely to experience health-enhancing effects after activity, according to a Coventry University. The researchers found that after the ‘green exercise’ the children’s post-activity blood pressure was significantly lower than it was without the natural environment, indicating that the nature scenes promoted positive health effects including lower blood pressure and hypertension.

Many other studies have found health benefits associated with children and nature. In developing guidelines for playground surfaces, authorities need to not only take into account the physical safety of children but also the mental and physical wellbeing of kids.

Luckily now both can be achieved using safe green surfaces for playgrounds.

Ozbreed, in conjunction with Fiona Robbé Landscape Architects, The Hills BARK BLOWER and Acousto-Scan investigated planting techniques to use when incorporating non-woody plants within the surfacing around play equipment. The research found that plants (especially soft wooded plants) can successfully be grown in mulched fall zone areas in playgrounds and meet standards associated with playground surfacing.

In fact the fall height actually improved over time due to the interaction of plant roots and mulch, meaning the introduction of plants can be shown to be safer. This has far reaching ramifications for the playground industry and the health and wellbeing of children, and is another tool for the 202020 vision goals to be reached. The full paper can be found at ozbreed.com.au/playground-mulch-trial/

In other research turf with specialised underlay has been shown to be safe at a CFH up to 4 metres. Although most heights in play grounds require up to 2.2 metres, it shows how safe turf can be with the right subsurface.

The specialised turf underlay called Living Soft Fall™, is comprised of a media made up of stabilised organics and a soft rubber carbon polymer, ideal for growing turf on.

Turf grown in this media was tested and passed, both when the turf was alive and dead, even when heavily compacted with a compacting machine. The testing has shown that the media itself cannot compact, and even if the turf dies it will still meet soft fall regulations. Living Soft Fall™ and turf can be used in combination with other playground surfaces. E.g. under swings and in extreme high wear areas, rubber products can be used. The media aids in wearability due to its non-compactive nature. More information about Living Soft Fall™ can be found at ozbreed.com.au/living-soft-fall/

Live turf is safe even on a hot day, and a child will not burn their feet. A child is at risk of a burn when a surface exceeds 50°C. Rubber surfaces can reach above 60°C on hot day according to Kidsafe. Recent research on a 40 degree day showed that turf was 45.65°C, whilst artificial turf was 66.95°C. Wood mulch was 64.15°C in the full sun. Temperature readings were reduced by up to 23°C adjacent to Lomandra plantings when compared to surfaces without any plants.

This research not only has implication for the fall zone in playgrounds, it will make areas outside the fall zone safer and more flexible. Kids playing on lawns or around plants in general can be kept safer, additionally it will allow child care centres more flexibility in moving portable equipment around turf areas outside the fall zone. Increased green space is critical for the health of our cities and the physical and mental health and wellbeing of the population. Now the population can also include children exercising in and around play grounds.

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Fertilising lawns in winter!

Most Australians have been fertilising at the wrong times of the year. Australia’s relatively warm winter climate and our change in turf types has been highlighted in research as a reason why we should be fertilising in winter and less in spring and summer. This research conducted by Ozbreed has shown that it is possible to keep Buffalo, Kikuyu and Zoysia turf green all year round when following optimum fertiliser applications and certain mowing practices, even in frost prone areas. This research has designed recipes to keep these turf types green all year round in many parts of Australia, using specialised fertiliser formulations. Most Australian studies of winter fertilising warm season turf have been conducted on Couch turf, which in this study showed poor results. Most USA and other overseas research on winter fertilising has been conducted in regions that reach minus 10° Celsius or colder in winter, yet have warm temperatures for the rest of the year: regions such as Florida, Texas, and Georgia in the USA. In these regions winter fertilising can cause winter kill. In Australia, only climatic regions similar to Canberra and Armidale get that cold and have the potential for winter kill if fertilised in winter. For the rest like Melbourne, Sydney (Including frost affected Western Sydney where the research was conducted), Perth, Adelaide and Brisbane, this research unlocks the true potential of keeping lawns green in winter.
In brief, the research involved fertilising replicated plots of numerous turf types with many different timing combinations, using a specialized autumn and winter blend of slow and quick release fertiliser and iron. Earlier research highlighted that a product called 2 Spec Elevate from Globe, provided the best performance for winter colour compared to other fertilisers tested. Large areas around Ozbreed trial gardens were also tested, including shaded areas. Some areas were not fertilised at all, whilst others had either regular autumn fertiliser, or heavy autumn fertiliser. Parts of these areas then either got no fertiliser in winter, or a heavy fertiliser in winter.
The results were unexpected. Common practice is to not fertilise in winter, as it is seen as a waste of time, or is often considered to hurt a lawn. This research for regions that do not usually get colder than minus 3° Celsius clearly shows that winter fertiliser greatly improves the green colour of many turf types. Over 30 frosts were recorded with a lowest temperature of around minus 3°c. In general, Kikuyu, most Buffalo and Zoysia types benefited from autumn and winter fertilising. Couch however showed no real benefit from winter fertilising in this trial. As Couch is probably the most researched sports turf, it is little wonder that conventional research and practice say to not fertilise lawns in winter. If well fertilised in winter, the lawns needed no fertiliser in spring to quickly green. Those that did not have winter fertiliser and no spring fertiliser struggled to green up. Next autumn and winter try fertilising your client’s lawn at a heavy rate.
Based on this research different recipes have been formulated to keep Buffalo, kikuyu, and Zoysia green all year round for many Australian regions. If you have Couch, these recipes will generally not work.

Buffalo Turf

All the Buffalo types showed good winter colour improvement by fertilising in autumn and winter. In our trials, Palmetto® Buffalo had better results than other Buffalo types, except for Sapphire® turf which rated the best. Sapphire® Buffalo with its fine leaf seems to be less effected by the frost and had the best winter colour ratings. Palmetto® turf had better ratings when fertilised in autumn and not in winter than most other types. This trial was on 3 year old plots. Younger turf often shows different results due to low thatch build up. The only ones that thatched less were Palmetto®, Sapphire® and Sir Walter Buffalo, all having better winter colour than the 3 other types, which all thatched considerably. However, even the more thatchy types improved with winter fertilising, just not by much.

Recipe for Improved Buffalo types

Fertilise at the beginning of April and again in mid-June with slow release fertiliser applications at a heavy rate, or better still use a blend of quick and slow release as per the ‘Autumn Winter Blend’ as used in the trials these recipes were based on. Fertilise in mid to late October or early November with a moderate rate of slow release fertiliser, or a heavy rate of organic type fertiliser. Fertilise in January, February or March if the lawn is having problems such as lawn grub or disease, has brown patches, or is looking a little tired, with a moderate application of slow release fertiliser. However, it may be worth considering further optional applications if your lawn receives very heavy wear from dogs or kids, or you want a dark green lawn all year. THE MOST IMPORTANT FERTILISER TIMES ARE AUTUMN AND WINTER.

Mowing practice can also help keep Buffalo greener in winter. Leave at a moderate length for most of the year. If after all the recommended fertilising the lawn browns off in winter, lightly mow the Buffalo. Under even many moderate frosts and the odd heavy frost, only the tips of leaves will burn. A light mow removes most of the burn making the lawn instantly greener. In spring every year for thatchy Buffalo types, and every 2 to 3 years for Palmetto® turf, Sapphire® turf and Sir Walter, dethatch with a specialised machine, or simply remove the thatch by mowing very short (scalping) and collecting the clippings. This will greatly improve the next year’s winter colour.

Kikuyu Turf

Without winter fertiliser, Kikuyu generally has the best winter colour. The difference in colour between one brand (namely Kenda® turf) with and without winter fertiliser was less pronounced, but it is known for its excellent winter colour. It still grew more with a winter fertiliser, and in high wear areas this extra growth would be of great benefit. Other Kikuyu types benefited a lot from the heavy fertiliser application rate in winter.

Recipe for fertilising Kikuyu

This really depends on what it is used for.

High use sporting facilities that receive regular wear e.g. council ovals or backyards with dogs should be treated in a similar fashion. Fertilise so that the turf never runs out of nutrient. If you use slow release, that will mean every 2 to 3 months. If you use regular fertiliser, it will be more often. In winter it is best to use a blend of quick and slow release like the autumn winter blend used in the research. It is very important to fertilise in mid-April and mid to the end of June using high rates.

Home lawns and amenity areas that receive moderate wear or less. Fertilise using the same recipe for Buffalo. Also similar to Buffalo, mowing lightly in winter can remove frost burn. Dethatching or short mowing every 2 to 3 years in spring will result in a greener lawn in winter.

Zoysia Turf

In the trial Nara™ Native Turf and Empire™ Zoysia showed differences and needed slightly different fertilising and mowing recipes. Of all turf types including Kikuyu and Buffalo, Nara™ Zoysia showed the greatest amount of improvement. Unfertilised in winter, Nara™ Native Turf had ratings of 3 and 4 out of 10 for winter colour, whilst when fertilised heavily in winter and autumn it had an average rating of approximately 7.5 out of 10. Nara™ Native Turf beat almost all of the Buffalo types for winter colour when fertilised heavily in winter, but was worse than almost all the Buffalo types when unfertilised. Winter fertilised Empire™ Zoysia rated a good 6.5 when mown short for winter colour, which was around the same as most Buffalo types, and unfertilised had a poor rating of around 3. Winter fertilising is crucial for a green Zoysia in the cooler months.

Recipe for Zoysia

The fertiliser recipe is the same as Buffalo for Nara™ Native Turf, while with Empire™ Zoysia you can dispense with the mid spring fertilising in late October, early November, unless the lawn has high wear. Nara™ Zoysia grows quicker than Empire™ Zoysia, so it needs more nutrients, but that also means that Nara™ Native Turf recovers from wear better. With Empire™ Zoysia it is recommended to keep it mown short coming into autumn and winter for better winter colour, unless you have shade. Nara™ Zoysia should be left a little longer, but mow it short once at the end of winter for a quicker spring green up. Like Buffalo, if Nara™ Native Turf discolours in winter, mow the tips of the leaves.

Recipe for Couch

Fertilise in autumn, spring and summer as per traditional advice. Winter fertiliser made no difference to winter colour in these trials. Northern parts of Australia will benefit from a winter fertiliser.

About the fertiliser used in this trial.

2 Spec Elevate from Globe was chosen for a good reason. It is mainly made up of slow release fertiliser, which has the benefit of continuously providing nutrients over a long period in the cooler months, but it also has a percentage of quick release that is available to green up a lawn rapidly. It has a good rate of Iron, which is essential for winter colour. Its high rate of Potassium helps turf grass withstand stresses, such as cold temperatures, drought, traffic and shade. Potassium also aids in producing a deep root system that makes the grass stronger. The Calcium in the fertiliser also ensures adequate root and shoot growth. Its nitrogen is available in a good blend of both slow and quick release. Used at a high rate, this study showed 2 Spec Elevate greatly improves the winter colour of Buffalo, Kikuyu and Zoysia.

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Aussie Native Plants Are Winner In Green Roof Trials

Recent research conducted both in Australia and the US on green roofs has found that Australian native Lomandra varieties out perform all others, including many popular exotics, proving just how tough our well bred natives are.

Green roofs need more than just succulents if they are going to fulfill all the goals and benefits wanted from a podium environment.

‘Green roof’ is made up of two words. For green life the rooftop indicates a harsh, hard-to-access place for maintenance, and in Australia, a windy, exposed and hot environment. The definition of a garden (green) is a planned space, set aside for the display, cultivation, and enjoyment of plants and other forms of nature. Modern green roofs have moved on from rooftop gardens, but they still hold some of the main principles. They must be beautiful, green, vegetative, healthy and low maintenance. To achieve most of the benefits of a green roof, or a rooftop garden, the plants need to be healthy and look good.

Research conducted by the University of Western Sydney and a USA Texas study, have shown many of our native plants do as well, if not better, than introduced succulents. They also show that organics are a viable low maintenance option for green roofs.

These findings allow designers to create a far more functional and visually appealing green roof.

The following list details the Top 5 performing plants across both the Australian and US based trial:

1. Shara™ Lomandra fluviatilis ‘ABU7’PBR

2. Mundi™ Westringia fruticosa ‘WES05’ PBR

3. Yareena™ Myoporum parvifolium ‘PARV01’PBR

4. Tanika® Lomandra longifolia ‘LM300’ PBR

5. Double Gold™ Gazania hybrid ‘GT20’ PBR (replacement for Tiny Tom)

This research also found that organic mixes promote better health. In the past advocates of mineral substrates used the argument that you cannot use organics because they slump and the water runoff would be unclean. This research proves both these assumptions to be incorrect.

For more information, including a recommended plants list for each Australian state and detailed downloadable paper on this study, click here

Benches and Hedges

Formal landscapes have never really gone out of fashion, but current interpretations allow for far more flexibility. Formal gardens can be minimalist, or more traditional in design. Modern formal gardens are selective and often use components borrowed from ancient Rome or Greece, or the more ornate renaissance period of Europe. Modern Australian formal gardens reflect our culture, and our punishing environment, whereby plants that can tolerate dry or 46 degree days are essential. Our local resources such as stone or wood, and innovative local design also play an important part. Although Benches and Hedges play an important part in the modern Australian formal garden, there are so many more elements to consider.

Much depends on the type and size of the landscape. The small spaces of modern housing backyards and the way they are often designed and used reflects the Australian desire to entertain and relax. They include lots of hard spaces with clean lines and geometric shapes that are formally set out, occasionally with the mirrored symmetry of older style formal landscapes, but more often now they are designed with a non-mirrored outline and a good degree of balance.

Sometimes it is the furniture, outdoor art, a gazebo, a water feature, or a green wall that stands out as the focal piece, however more often than not, the focal point of the formal Aussie backyard is the outdoor entertainment area. This area has evolved as an extension of the indoors taken outside, and is often referred to as an “Outdoor Room”. Lots of large format pavers, and more and more large outdoor tiles and clean plant covered walls dominate, with strategically placed architectural patio pots and plants used as accents.

If modern formal small landscapes are desired, it is very important to use the suitable furniture. Wood, stone, or wrought iron looking benches provide a wonderfully integrated place for family and friends to sit and relax and enjoy the garden. Furniture looks far better when kept simple and not cluttered in a modern Australian formal garden. All wood, or all stone, or pure metal furniture work well, but furniture mish mash such as canvas and wood, or cane and cushions, or aluminium and glass tend to distract from the clean modern look.

If glass is used in parts of the Landscape, then glass tables can work if they are just plain glass tops, and simply designed chairs. Sleek looking stainless steel Barbeques add Australia’s culture to the landscape, as too do uniquely looking Australian features and focal points. Whether it be Australian stone or wood used in formal looking ornaments and sculptures, or garden wall art, a touch of Australian culture can be added to a formal looking garden.

Formal plantings used architecturally in clusters, or screening plants are popular, the latter being often hedged formally. In the past, English and Japanese Box were used as formal hedging plants or plants grown into balls. The recent years of peak summer days that reached well over the mid forty degrees, have burnt, maimed and killed many of these plants. For this reason there is a trend to use tough formal looking Australian native plants, or summer hardy exotic ones. New ultra compact Westringia and Callistemon plants can be planted in groups for that formal look for full sun to part shade. Aussie Box® Westringia is perfect for hedging. It can can be pruned into a 40 cm high hedge or close to a metre high hedge. Its much shorter internodes allow it to be easily pruned into balls from 40 cm to 90 cm high. Pruning three to four times per year keeps it at its best.

Grey Box™ Westringia is a much smaller native box, which can be used as a tight hedge from 30 cm to 40 cm, or as ball pruned annually from 35 cm to 45 cm. Mundi™ Westringia is a ground cover Westringia that can be formalised by pruning three times per year with a long arm hedge trimmer. Modern machinery enables far quicker maintenance of formal hedging or topiary. Scarlet Flame™ is the densest form of Callistemon, and can be pruned twice per year into a tight tidy hedge that copes well with Australia’s harsh climate.

Better still, it flowers in spring and autumn, and gets flushes of reddish new growth. If you want Callistemon in ball shapes, use Green John™ Callistemon and prune to shape yearly. It is more compact and has cleaner foliage than Little John, and its dark green leaves and bright red flowers make it far better suited to Australian formal gardens. For shade Lilly Pillies like Allyns Magic and Cascade can be made into small hedges or ball shape group plantings.

Screening plants are an important aspect of the modern Australian formal garden, and are regularly used around the back or side walls of the landscape. For sun backed walls, fences or any sunny aspect, one plant stands out. Slim™ Callistemon, a very narrow growing Callistemon can tolerate high reflective heat and still stay clean and tidy. This is a very narrow growing, Myrtle Rust resistant plant that can be used as a dense screen from 1.5 metres to 3 metres high, and only needs occasional pruning to keep it very narrow. It flowers twice per year, and provides dense foliage from the ground up. Native screening plants for shade, range from Acmena smithii plants such as Sublime™ Acmena, which provides a Myrtle Rust and Psyllid resistant, shade and sun tolerant, large screening plant, or shade tree, to the very narrow Pinnacle™ Syzygium, ideal for planting along walls or fences in shady to full sun positions. Pinnacle can also be used for narrow topiary. Lack of space in the modern Aussie backyard have made formal looking green walls popular, and low maintenance evergreen Liriopes, Lomandra, and other plants are making them easier to maintain.

Exotics are not all weak when it comes to heat, but most still struggle with the 47 degree days. One Nandina stands out for formal gardens. Obsession™ Nandina is a very tidy fine leaf dense Nandina, that has red foliage for about two thirds of the year. Rhaphiolepis are very tough, and the new Cosmic White™ Rhaphiolepis and Cosmic Pink™ Rhaphiolepis plants, not only look great when pruned twice yearly, but also rarely produce berries, making them cleaner, and safer, as they are non-invasive (Click here for research paper on Rhaphiolepis). In the more humid regions, Viburnum odoratissimum are very popular as hedges, but they can get rather untidy, as they grow quickly and have somewhat larger leaves and long internodes. Dense Fence Viburnum ‘VOC1’ PBR makes a reliable quick growing screen. It’s shorter internodes and smaller more dense leaves make it a much better choice than the common form. Tidy annual flowers can be used in group plantings using the same plant in mass, but they must be changed when untidy. Alternatively hardier flowering Perennials can be used, such asSterile Gazanias, or native sun tough Scaevola forms.

Plants such as Mondo or mowable Liriope can be used around borders or as dense dark green lawn alternative. One of the best is Isabella® Liriope, the fine leaf, pink flowered, mow once per year, spreading ground cover Liriope. It’s ideal for planting between pavers, or as a high shade or low maintenance sun lawn where a quick mow in early August tidies it up beautifully, and keeps it low growing. Lawns enhance modern Australian landscapes, with fine leaf types providing the most formal look. If you have full sun to 40% shade the best type is a Zoysia. Either Nara™ the beautiful fine leaf native turf, or Empire™, the very formal looking Zoysia japonica. If you have between 40% to 70% shade, then Buffalo is the best alternative, with Sapphire® being the only fine leaf type, but luckily it is also the best in shade. Very broad leaf types of Buffalo look out of place.

In larger landscapes like parks and even mass plantings, modern Australian formal plantings can be achieved by careful plant selection and grouping, clean hard surfaces, modern furniture and lighting selection. Evergreen plants such as Tanika® Lomandra have really led the way in this style of landscape. Trimmed every 3 to 5 years, this plant can be kept stylish and clean. Trimmed into a ball gives this Lomandra that formal look after pruning. In Queensland, Tropic Cascade™ Lomandra offers a great weeping alternative. Just Right® Liriope is another strappy leaf plant that provides a formal dark green look. Unlike all other Liriopes, including Evergreen Giant, Just Right® Liriope does not burn in the sun, and only needs pruning every 5 years or so. Small ball like plants such as Grey Box, or yearly pruned Green John make great mass planting formal gardens. Well defined paths and walk ways, with strategically located gravel or hard surfaces, or the use of fine leaf low maintenance lawns such as Zoysia, with cleverly placed benches greatly enhance large scale formal landscapes.

Old style European renaissance period formal gardens still have their place, but in Australia formal gardens have evolved their own style. Local materials, furniture, and specialised Australian native plants have helped create the Australian formal Landscape. Future plant breeding, inventions of new materials, furniture and garden art, and innovative landscape design and construction will ensure further evolution of the Aussie formal landscape garden.

 Link to original article

Lomandras for Queensland

Lomandra is a genus of native grass-like plant. There are 51 recognised naturally occurring species. They tend to be very hardy plants with deep and dense root systems making them ideal for slopes or erosion prone areas. Most lomandras are adaptable to either sun or shade and can be very tolerant of both extreme dry and extreme wet conditions making them very versatile.

Plant breeding has given us a diverse range of lomandra cultivars. Only a handful of species are suited to cultivation, but this handful has led to the development of a wonderful profusion of cultivars. Lomandras can now feature in gardens all over the country and in all types of gardens, to great effect.  Variable amongst the cultivars is leaf colour, in addition to height, form, leaf slenderness and even flower profusion and perfume. This allows us to create diverse and beautiful gardens with lomandras as either feature plants, mass planted or as accent plants. Lomandras can be very compact plants in a variety of sizes so can work very well in both formal and informal gardens. Lomandras can fulfil the function of an ornamental grass in a garden due to their slender leaves and grass like growth habit, which can make them very useful in Queensland gardens where many ornamental grasses struggle and we have limited choice when featuring grasses in our landscapes and gardens.

The hardiness of these plants means that they can be used in harsh settings such as median strips, and perform well with little to no care. Not all lomandras however are suited to all areas and situations.

Plant breeding has also developed lomandras for different growing conditions and the suitability of a species or cultivar for your growing conditions is also critical when choosing the lomandra that is right for your garden. In Queensland those conditions can include extremes of wet and dry, high humidity and susceptibility to phytophthora (root rot). While most lomandras are tolerant of extremes of wet and dry, humidity and phytophthora resistance can vary enormously. To make selection easier, the following information summarises lomandra cultivars best suited to growing in Queensland.

Katie Belles™ Lomandra hystrix ‘LHBYF’ PBR

One of the larger lomandras, reaching 1.5- 1.8m high, this lomandra is very well suited to Queensland. It tolerates a wide range of conditions and soil types and has the bonus of abundant perfumed flowers. Katie Belles™ is receiving much attention as a very beautiful as well as very hardy plant useful in mass plantings or as a feature plant in wet and dry landscapes. It is the best performing, evergreen Australian native rain garden plant and is phytophthora resistant.

Lucky Stripe™ Lomandra hystrix ‘LMV200’ PBR

This is the only recommended variegated lomandra for Queensland and a reliable performer elsewhere as well. Growing to approximately 1m, it is a very clean lomandra with beautiful variegated foliage which does not discolour in humid conditions. For a hardy and reliable plant with variegated foliage this is a hard plant to beat and can be used to very dramatic effect in a garden. Again this plant is resistant to phytophthora.

Tropic Cascade™ Lomandra hystrix ‘LHWP’ PBR

Tropic Cascade is well suited to tropical and subtropical regions. It grows to approximately 60cm and is a compact form with a delightfully weeping habit to the leaf from which it derives its name. This lomandra also features perfumed flowers. It can handle periods of inundation so is valuable for soil stabilisation in flood prone areas or by watercourses. This is again a lomandra that is resistant to the phytophthora disease.

Shara™ Lomandra fluviatilis ‘ABU7’ PBR

Growing to 45cm this compact lomandra is a stand out performer in humid conditions and has excellent phytophthora resistance, in fact it is one of only 2 lomandra varieties in Australia to show 100% resistance to the disease (at the time of writing no deaths have been recorded as a result of phytophthora). The fine blue- green foliage and masses of small yellow flowers make it highly ornamental. Shara™ is one of the most reliable plants with blue tinged foliage for Queensland.  The fine foliage of this plant is softer than most lomandras making it suitable for planting beside pathways and in children’s gardens.

Evergreen Baby™ Lomandra labill. ‘LM600’ PBR

A fine leafed form of L. longifolia, in a small compact but very hardy bush to 40 or 45cm high. It performs well in the subtropics and has shown to work well in Darwin, so it is expected to do well in northern Queensland, more testing is required, but has so far shown that it should perform all over Queensland. This is the second of the two varieties of Lomandra that have shown 100% resistance to phytophthora (at the time of writing no deaths have been recorded as a result of phytophthora). The compact size of this lomandra makes it well suited to roadsides, as it meets line of site requirements, is very tough, and drought and wet feet tolerant. It is also ideal for small gardens and pot culture.

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Phytophthora in Australia and Resistant Lomandras

Phytophthora in Australia and Resistant Lomandras

By Kate Wall

Phytophthora is a root rot disease caused by the fungi Phytophthora cinnamomi. It is a major cause of die back in native vegetation and has significant impact in gardens as well.

The disease is likely to have been brought into Australia with European settlement and has become very widespread. Human activity is a major vector for spreading the disease, however the fungal spores are easily dispersed by runoff and flood waters, making it almost impossible to contain. The spores flourish in warm moist environments and has far greater impact in regions with high rainfall than it does in arid areas. The spores are able to remain dormant in soil or dead plant material for many years and in doing so can survive drought very well.

Phytophthora root rot affects the roots of plants, and occasionally the stems. Often we are unable to detect its presence until the plant has started to die and may be beyond saving. The first sign can be the leaves of the plant drying out and turning yellow, in spite of soil available moisture. On closer inspection you may find that the small feeder roots of the plant have turned brown and rotted; a sure sign of root rot, and very likely Phytophthora.

Phytophthora can be treated with a fungicide containing phosphite. Care should be taken as some plants are sensitive to high doses of phosphite, and phosphorous sensitive natives may be particularly vulnerable. Treating your garden soil with low doses of phosphite can be very beneficial if you have experienced root rot in your garden, but is best done together with improving your drainage.

Ensuring your soil is healthy will also help plants to cope with small incidences of disease, including root rot. This means having good drainage, and incorporating well-rotted organic matter as compost. A dose of rock minerals can also help. This provides the nutrients needed for strong plant growth without using excess nitrogen which can cause weak growth. The rock minerals and organic matter act to improve the condition of the soil and buffer excess water, nutrients or pH issues which can cause additional stress for plants, making them more susceptible to disease.

Even with the best soil preparation, some gardens will still struggle with root rot problems caused by Phytophthora.  Planting Phytophthora resistant plants will make a huge difference in these gardens.

Lomandras are native grass like plants which are often used in erosion control or public plantings due to their extreme hardiness. In these situations, additional care to protect them from Phytophthora is not always possible and unfortunately many lomandras have succumbed to the disease.

Some varieties of lomandra have proven to be highly resistant to Phytophthora and are therefore the ideal choice for planting in gardens and public spaces where drainage may be poor and Phytopthora is present. Resistant varieties are particularly well suited to areas which receive run off water, as Phytophthora is easily spread by water.

The following lomandras are highly Phytophthora resistant and are ideal for planting in areas which receive water runoff. As with all lomandras, they have dense root systems making them hardy and ideal erosion control plants.

Tropic Cascade™ / Southern Cascade™ Lomandra hystrix ‘LHWP’ PBR is well suited to tropical and sub-tropical regions. As the name suggests, Tropic Cascade™ has highly attractive cascading foliage which adds a softness to the look of the planting. It is ideally suited to the banks of waterways where the dense roots can provide significant erosion protection to the bank, and the cascading foliage can provide shelter for wildlife. Tropic Cascade™ is well suited to use in erosion control in gardens and for creating “dry creek bed” effects to manage water flow in gardens. It can handle periods of wet feet and has survived in cold temperatures down to -4°c. (Note: Sold as Southern Cascade™ in Southern NSW, ACT, VIC, SA and WA)

Katie Belles™ Lomandra hystrix ‘LHBYF’ PBR is the best performing, Australian native plant for use in rain gardens. It is ideal for mass planting in wet and dry landscapes, the edge of watercourses, drainage channels, and specimen planting. It is also a great option for erosion control. Katie Belles™ flowers abundantly with masses of perfumed flowers which are highly attractive to bees and other wildlife. It is highly attractive and well suited to ornamental gardens were flowers are desired.

Lucky Stripe™ Lomandra hystrix ‘LMV200’ PBR is a tough reliable variegated plant even in humid climates. This plant is ideal for mass roadside plantings, rain gardens and is excellent for erosion control. It is a long lived plant that does not produce viable seed, so it will stay where it is planted. This very hardy variegated plant is great to provide contrasting effects in a garden.

In addition to the above 3 lomandras which have shown very good Phytophthora resistance, the following 2 lomandras have shown complete resistance – with no deaths at all recorded in Phytophthora contaminated soils (at time of writing).

Evergreen Baby™ Lomandra labill. ‘LM600’ PBR is a very tough, compact Lomandra that is drought and wet feet tolerant. Many of the other compact forms of lomandra available are of L. confertifolia parentage which naturally occur in dry shade forests and do not have the ability to cope in hot or wet conditions. Evergreen Baby™ has L. longifolia parentage and is far tougher in hot or wet conditions, making it a very useful compact lomandra for gardens or public space plantings across much of Australia.

Shara™ Lomandra fluvialtilis ‘ABU7’ PBR is a great fine leaf lomandra for humid landscapes and is the number 1 performing rooftop garden plant. The Shara™ plant is another good option for erosion control. This plant will tolerate periodic wet feet, but not permanent. The fine leaf of this lomandra makes it an ideal choice as an alternative to ornamental grasses for gardens in humid or Phytophthora prone areas.

Gold Coast Athletes’ Village Get New Name, Hits the Market

The former site of the Gold Coast Commonwealth Games Athletes’ Village looks set to become a thriving community "unlike anything the Gold Coast has seen".

In a first for the Gold Coast, all 1,251 apartments and townhouses in the $550 million Grocon-built Athletes’ Villagewill be offered solely for long-term rent.

The new residential and retail centre will include 18 apartment buildings, 82 double-storey townhouses and will be called "Smith Collective".

At the heart of the precinct will be a 6,280sq m retail and dining hub, with major supermarket chain Woolworths and retail giant BWS already securing tenancies.

The land is still formally owned by the state government and held under a lease agreement to a company jointly controlled by developer Grocon and global investment bank UBS.

Related: Maturing Gold Coast Apartment Market No Longer ‘Boom and Bust’

All 1251 apartments in the former athletes village will be offered solely for long-term rent.

Michael Woodrow, executive director of Smith Collective project manager UBS Asset Management, said international trends showed people were increasingly willing to forgo home ownership in favour of the quality of lifestyle and location offered by precincts such as Smith Collective.

“Research shows that while an increasing number of people want to live where they work, shop and play, they also yearn for the security of long-term leases and ability to add personal touches to their homes,” Woodrow said.

“By maintaining ownership of Smith Collective’s residential offering, we are able to grant those wishes and help our residents and retailers build a sense of community often lost within large-scale urban developments.”

Woodrow highlighted that Smith Collective’s new name was relatable and reflective of the future community.

“As the most common surname in Australia and one of the 10 most common in the world, ‘Smith’ highlights that the community really is for everyone,” Woodrow said.

The name was also chosen as a geographical link to the Smith Street Motorway, which the complex is situated on.

Set among seven hectares of parkland, the community is located within close proximity to Griffith University’s Gold Coast campus, Gold Coast University Hospital, Gold Coast Private Hospital and the Southport CBD.

Global real estate services company JLL has been appointed to manage the site with dwellings set to be released in stages as the community grows.

A community of 2,500 academics, students, scientists, doctors and nurses is expected once complete.

Internal works, on the "bright and airy" self-contained apartments and townhouses, are set to be completed in December.

Green Life for Bio-retention Swales and Basins

Summary Guide to Successful planting of Bio-retention swales and basins:

1. Use Evergreen Plants, as they reduce nutrient all year. Eg; Lomandra varieties that handle wet feet. Avoid plants that go dormant such as Juncus, and Carex.

2. If using turf, use Zoysia, as it needs far less maintenance than other turf. Eg; Nara™ native turf in swales can be mown as little as twice per year.

3. Plant so that when mature there are few gaps for weeds to invade.

4. If temporary erosion matting is used, make sure it is a type of jute mesh with holes that allows water to penetrate. Thick jute mats become hydrophobic harming the growth of plants, and reducing the swales ability to drain.

Here we have a more in depth and detailed look at green life for bio-rentention swales and basins.

In recent years the lack of space for wetlands to clean water prior to outflow to stormwater, and the increase in hard surfaces, has seen the use of bio-rention swales and basins increase. The vegetation of bio-rention swales basins often fails in the short and long term due to poor species selection and erosion. To be successful you need to protect the soil in the short term, yet have long term success with robust plants that not only survive the harsh condition of wet and dry, but also help prevent erosion. So what are the best techniques and the most appropriate plants? Turf has been well documented to be the best method to not only reduce erosion but also the best method to clean the water.1 However turf is not the only solution, as new breeding has developed a number of native plant species that perform this task well.

For bio-retention swales native plants or turf are generally preferred compared to exotics. Although exotic Empire™ Zoysia japonica ‘SS500’  does this extremely well, the Native turf Nara™ Zoysia macrantha ‘MAC03’ is becoming extremely popular for this use because it is native and it performs well. The advantages of this instant native turf provide compelling arguments for its use. Firstly research shows instant turf is far better than plants and geo textiles at preventing erosion. 1 In other research Nara™ Native Turf was shown to increase the strength of soil more than other turf types including couch and Kikuyu. 2 Nara needs far less mowing than those types, and can be left natural without mowing and still remain over time under 30cm high. Nara™ has shown great ability in trials to handle both dry conditions and wet feet in Bio-retention swales.3 In other research, Nara™ has been shown to be far stronger when pegged in the ground and will not dislodge as easy as couch. 4 Turf in general has been presented in research to clean water extremely well in both removing nutrients and heavy metals. 1 Finally, it is far more cost effective than geo textiles or plants. 5

For aesthetic and bio diversity reasons plants can be a desirable component of bio-retention swales. However a lot of the native plants that have been used brown off badly in drought and winter, leaving aesthetically unappealing landscapes, and leaving long periods of dormant plants that have little effect in nutrient reduction in dormant periods. The public prefer evergreen plants. Recent breeding in wet feet tolerant Lomandra has not only provided plants that can handle wet and dry7 and remain evergreen, but an array of visually pleasing plants with different heights, textures, and even colours.  Generally till recently only Lomandra hystrix types were available in the industry for this use. The problem with the common forms is that they seeded and were of varying heights and varied in their ability to handle the wet. These new uniform sterile forms change all that. Katie Belles™ Lomandra hystrix ‘LHBYF’  was the first new variety that showed its natural ability to handle both wet and dry. It is a larger sterile long lived plant that has excellent erosion control capabilities, and as with all Lomandra suited to this situation it is good at reducing nutrient and heavy metal out flow. 6 Lomandra is better suited to reducing nutrient and heavy metals in the long term compared Carex and Juncus, which have been the traditional plants to use. As Carex and Juncus go dormant when it is dry, or in winter, they do the job for as little as 6 months of the year. Carex and Juncus initially for the first 6 months strip more nutrients and metals than Lomandra, but in the long run Lomandra with its evergreen nature out performs plants that go dormant and brown. A lower growing alternative, Tropic Cascade™ Lomandra hystrix ‘LHWP’  is now being used and is performing well at this task.  It is half the height and has beautiful weeping dark green foliage. A new plant called Lucky Stripe™ Lomandra hystrix ‘LMV200’  is destined to become popular for this use, also being remarkable at staying evergreen in wet and dry, this plant will be a boon to Landscape architects wanting to add colour to swales. With its vivid white and green variegated foliage, it contrasts remarkably with green plants, and turns a bio-retentions swale into a design statement.

Fine textured more compact Lomandra that handle wet feet7 are finally available. Shara™ Lomandra fluviatilis ‘ABU7’  has been widely used in Bio-retention swales and basins in Queensland with great success, where humidity and wet feet usually kill fine leaf Lomandra. It is a mid-sized to smaller sized Lomandra, with great cold tolerance for climates such as Canberra and high humidity tolerance for climates such as Darwin. A new plant called Evergreen Baby™ Lomandra labill. ‘LM600’  has also been shown to work in the same conditions as Shara™ Lomandra, resulting in a very low growing plant for Bio-retention swales and basins. Nafray®  Pennisetum alopecuroides ‘PA300’  has been used in Swales and Basins for many years, proving to be an effective option for wet and dry and erosion control, but it will brown off in winter.

If a shrub type plant or ground cover plant is needed, both Mundi™ Westringia fruticosa ‘WES05’  and Grey Box™ Westringia fruticosa ‘WES04’  handle dry conditions and wet feet. It would be best not to plant them at the bottom of the swale as the erosion capabilities are less than Lomandra, but planted in amongst the Lomandra in drifts, mainly on the banks they will provide a beautiful Landscape feature. These are the only two Westringia type plants known to handle periodic wet feet, as most types are known not too cope. Grey Box™ Westringia won plant of the year in 2015, and its wet feet abilities helped that win greatly.7

If the swales is generally dry and only periodically wet many more plant types can be used. Liriope make a good choice particularly Just Right®  Liriope muscari ‘LIRJ’  which is very wet feet tolerant. Little Jess™ Dianella caerulea ‘DCMP01’  works well particularly further up the slope, as does Lucia™ Dianella caerulea ‘DC101’  which spreads very well and has very good erosion control capabilities.

With plants unlike turf extra temporary erosion control is required. Avoid solid biodegradable mats such as Jute Mats as they quickly become hydrophobic and prevent water seeping into the ground which not only defeats the purpose of the water seeping into the swale or basin and cleaning the water or replenishing the ground water supply, but also weaken the plants and causing many fatalities. Use woven material that has some small holes in it that allow water to penetrate, such as jute mesh. Plant the plants close enough that when mature there will be few gaps for weeds to penetrate. If stronger flow protection is needed geocell type protection can be used in combination with these type of plants, but will greatly increase the cost.

Breeding of new plants that better handle wet feet, and dry, has given a new lease of life to Bio-retention swales basins. They now not only function well but stay evergreen and look great. These same plants can be used by the home gardener in rain gardens, providing an ornamental garden that reduces pollution by removing contaminates prior to water flowing into the stormwater system.

1. https://ozbreed.com.au/articles/turf-tops-erosion-control-methods/

http://www.turfaustralia.com.au/documents/item/136

1. https://ozbreed.com.au/erosion-control-research/

2. http://www.turfmate.com.au/article/3772/using-turf-for-erosion-control

3. http://thelawnguide.com.au/lawn-expert/460-erosion-control-using-native-turf-and-biodegradable-pegs.html

4. http://gardendrum.com/2014/01/23/turf-the-cost-effective-ground-cover/

5. Phytoaccumulation of trace metals at the Sunny Corner mine, New South Wales, with suggestions for a possible remediation strategy, Australasian Journal of Ecotoxicology 01/2003; 9:69-82

6. https://ozbreed.com.au/articles/grey-box-westringia-crowned-plant-of-the-year-2015/

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Utah Fall Colors at Snowbasin by Drone

Fall Colors in Northern Utah, Ogden Valley

BIM Crucial for Flagship Mercedes-Benz AutoHaus

As the $100 million Mercedes-Benz flagship, AutoHaus, takes shape in inner-Brisbane, the development and construction team have used Building Information Modelling (BIM) to keep construction on schedule.

Designed by Brisbane-based architecture firm Cottee Parker Architects, AutoHaus is set to become Australia’s largest automotive dealership – with a full-service dealership, a Mercedes-Benz Museum, an AMG Performance Centre, unique dining options and several function areas.

The flagship facility is set to rival its European counterparts as an exciting and iconic piece of urban renewal on a previously under-utilised site within the Breakfast Creek Wharf precinct.

Cottee Parker Architects director Kim Vojacek believes the overall success of the project comes down to the team’s innovative use of Building Information Modelling (BIM), as well as ensuring a collaborative design and construction process that included all project consultants.

“The project is still in construction, but the project team have recognised that using BIM in the design process has been a real success in mitigating any potential extensions to the project’s program,” Vojacek said.

Construction is being led by John Holland, who worked with Cottee Parker Architects to harness the power of BIM to take advantage of the benefits the technology could offer the overall project.

Cottee Parker Architects director Kim Vojacek believes the overall success of the project comes down to the team’s innovative use of Building Information Modelling (BIM)

“The benefits that John Holland saw were being able to effectively program the construction of the building and be able to program and design associated works such as scaffolding and crane locations.

“We tried to build everything in the virtual environment with the whole project team collaborating to assess the model. Everyone’s expertise was taken into account to solve problems and to provide better design outcomes and value for the client.”

As the project progressed, the designs and Building Information Models continued to become more refined – with the final BIM being a complete 3D representation of the entire project.

“The model includes all the different elements of the building – the floor slabs, the columns, the windows, doors etc. – all in 3D, which brings the entire building together in a virtual environment,” Vojacek said.

By prioritising BIM in the design and construction phases the project team worked collaboratively in order to address any design clashes and to keep the project moving on schedule without any unnecessary on-site construction issues.

“We were able to create one model that brought together the electrical, fire and hydraulic models into one federated 3D model. We then ran a number of clash detection reports in the federated model to identify and address any potential issues before construction began,” Vojacek said.

“Having a 3D model available to clearly refer back to ensured that everyone was clear on what the desired outcomes were and the entire team saw where changes needed to be made to keep the project moving forward.”

Using a collaborative design process utilising the power of BIM technology is becoming more popular in the construction and development industry – especially as it becomes an efficient and accurate way to plan the construction process and keep the project on schedule and on budget.

“More people are beginning to understand the value that BIM delivers. As more people begin to acknowledge the benefits of 3D modelling, and how it facilitates better project outcomes, we’ll see more people that are willing to take it on and even mandate it for their projects,” Vojacek said.

With a BIM-delivered project, one of the biggest considerations is how much effort is required in the early stages of the project.

If everything is done effectively in the early stages, then the input required from the consultant team is minimal in the construction phases.

Designed by Brisbane-based architecture firm Cottee Parker Architects, AutoHaus is set to become Australia’s largest automotive dealership – with a full-service dealership, a Mercedes-Benz Museum, an AMG Performance Centre, unique dining options and several function areas.

Contrary to the more traditional processes – where 2D drawings and interpretations are used to establish an understanding of a site – BIM processes don’t require heavy engagement from the consulting teams during the construction process.

“The processes of documentation and collaboration very much rely on everyone taking ownership of the process, which requires a high degree of accuracy in terms of the modelling undertaken by all parties. Having a proactive attitude to collaboration is important,” Vojacek said.

Due for completion at the end of 2018, the Mercedes-Benz AutoHaus will be the equivalent of a 10-storey multi-residential building and will become a landmark presence in the sought after Newstead, Ascot and Hamilton areas in inner-Brisbane.

For more information on the Mercedes-Benz AutoHaus Project, see the website.

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10 REASONS TO HIRE A LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT

1. Landscape architects will increase the value of your home. Hiring a landscape architect is one of the best investments for your home, adding as much as 15 percent to its value over comparable houses. A landscape architect is well equipped to design an outdoor living space that will not only add value, but also extend your living space while allowing you to enjoy all that nature has to offer. Arbors, installed seating, fountains, fire pits/fireplaces, patios, and even outdoor kitchens can create a space that is both inviting and environmentally sustainable. And research from Virginia Tech shows that landscapes literally grow in value over time, while traditional home additions or remodels start to lose value the minute the dust settles.

2. Landscape architects have a plan. A big advantage of hiring landscape architects is that they’re trained to think about landscapes as systems. They will assess your property’s problem areas as well as possibilities and create a solid plan that addresses both the big picture and exact details of how your landscape will look. They will also help you select the perfect materials, styles, textures, and colors for your landscape project. A landscape architect will handle all the details, saving you time and stress.

3. Landscape architects design low-maintenance gardens featuring beautiful native plants.For those who are looking for low-maintenance gardens, native plants are the way to go—and a landscape architect will incorporate them into your landscape design. Native plants reduce water costs and often reduce chemical applications, and insects like bumble bees and butterflies flourish among them. One trend that relies on native plants is called xeriscaping, which reduces the need for supplemental watering or irrigation.

 4. Landscape architects know where to place trees to lower energy bills. The proper placement of trees and large shrubs can actually lower energy bills by reducing heating and cooling costs, and a knowledgeable landscape architect knows exactly where they should be placed.

5. Landscape architects incorporate permeable paving. Permeable paving can offer solutions for driveway flooding or just add beauty to patios and sidewalks, while reducing runoff and encouraging groundwater recharge. A landscape architect will integrate permeable paving into your home landscape.

6. Landscape architects design beautiful rain gardens. A landscape architect will create a properly-placed rain garden for backyards that might experience seasonal flooding. Rain gardens also create a habitat for birds and beneficial insects. These gardens help to filter rainwater runoff away from sidewalks and lawns and allow the water to infiltrate back into the ground. They are more attractive than a storm drain or French drain.

7. Landscape architects design natural swimming pools.Unlike the aquamarine-colored pools of the past, a natural pool looks and sometimes acts like a natural pond, but also offers all the benefits of a chlorinated pool with less maintenance and harsh chemicals. A landscape architect will work with you to create a beautiful, all-natural backyard pool.

8. Landscape architects can devise the perfect drip irrigation system.Drip irrigation systems water plants right at the root and serve as an efficient alternative to sprinkler systems. But an incorrectly-installed irrigation system can not only cost extra dollars on a monthly water bill, but it can also kill all of the new plants it’s meant to be helping. Over-watering is a huge problem in many residential landscapes and one that can be easily avoided by hiring a landscape. Be sure to get a timer for maximum effectiveness.

9. Landscape architects offer expertise from start to finish.Landscape architects will remain involved with the construction and follow through. What the homeowner may consider a long weekend project might actually take weeks.

10. Landscape architects will design a landscape you will love.Landscape architects will deliver a finished project that you will love but also comply with regulations and codes. It will be a special place that you and your family and friends will enjoy for years to come.

Brisbane’s Best 10 Suburbs to ‘Live, Work and Play

Effective transport connectivity, the decentralisation of the CBD, and an innovative planning framework to counteract inefficient urban sprawl will help improve the liveability of South East Queensland, according to a new report.

PriceWaterhouse Cooper's CityPulse report provides insights into a three category index across SEQ, measuring how residents live, work, and play.

Live, a measure of wellbeing and the level of social equity, measures the overall amenity of an area based on factors such as housing affordability, crime rates and access to health care services and schools.

Work indicators focus on economic factors indicative of local economic prosperity such as value of building approval, gross regional product, and rate of business growth, along with accessibility to jobs, and level of welfare dependency.

While Play, arguably the most important segment, measures the fundamentals of an area offering entertainment, dining, cultural or sporting activities.

So which are Brisbane’s best suburbs to live, work and play?

The Top 10 Results for CityPulse SEQ

LIVE WORK PLAY

1. Toowong Brisbane City South Brisbane

2. Coorparoo. North Lakes - Mango Hill Woolloongabba

3. Tarragindi Newstead - Bowen Hills Kelvin Grove - Herston

4. Mount Gravatt Springfield Lakes Brisbane City

5. Kangaroo Point Paddington Fortitude Valley

6. South Brisbane Kangaroo Point Ashgrove

7. Kelvin Grove Spring Hill Auchenflower

8. Ormeau - Yatala Paddington - Milton Wooloowin/ Lutwyche

9. Hamilton East Brisbane Yeronga

10. Bellbird Park Newstead Bowen Hills

Proximity to Brisbane’s CBD is the linchpin of “ live” scores, with Brisbane's inner west suburb Toowong taking the crown, followed by Coorparoo and Tarragindi.

Brisbane managing partner Debbie Smith said suburbs near Brisbane’s CBD rated well given their close proximity, within 30 minutes, to schools, universities, hospitals and child care as top areas to live.

“Suburbs located on existing train lines also scored well with their easy access to amenities and health. However these inner city areas face average or below average housing affordability,” Smith said.

PwC recommends future planning include a direct focus on access such as public transport to amenities such as health care and education.

Related: The Gabba’s $100 Million Facelift Moves Ahead

An aerial view of Toowong, six kilometres from Brisbane's CBD

Brisbane City ranked number one for work, significantly higher than any other suburb.

“The suburbs just outside the inner city also score highly due to their ease of access to the conglomeration of job opportunities in the CBD. This result highlights the importance of transport connectivity between residential clusters and areas of employment,” Smith said.

“The Cross River Rail Project will be a critical piece of infrastructure to improving job accessibility to the City from Brisbane’s suburban areas as well.”

Related: Report Ranks Best Perth Suburbs to ‘Live, Work and Play’

Southbank, South Brisbane.

The report notes that outer Brisbane areas came in below inner city suburbs in this sector primarily due to lack of connectivity.

“Good transport connectivity, enabling residents to enjoy greater access to cultural experiences... saw Brisbane’s inner city suburbs achieve high ‘play’ scores,” Smith said.

SEQ consists of a series of diverse subregions spanning Inner Brisbane, Outer Brisbane, Ipswich, Logan, the Gold Coast and Sunshine Coast.

"However, the inefficient urban sprawl that characterises the region has resulted in poor ‘live’, ‘work’ and ‘play’ scores for a significant portion of the population of SEQ," Smith explained.

In order to solve this, Smith says a future vision for SEQ includes a series of distinct precincts that offer high quality live, work and play options for communities along with diverse employment options.

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Does a Green Wall count as Green Space?

Well, let’s look at that question. Firstly we need to be clear – a green wall means one covered in living plants, not a wall painted green!

The concept of a green wall is gaining much favour in recent times. What started as a major landscaping revolution is now available to home gardeners in kit form and makes regular appearances on TV renovation programs.

By definition, a green wall is any vertical space which has plants growing vertically on the surface. It may be as simple as a vine growing over a wall, or as complex as enormous series of planting pockets mounted on the side of high rise buildings, with fully integrated irrigation systems.

Having green space matters. As available land becomes a highly valuable commodity in our cities, less and less is devoted to green space – that is, growing grass, trees or plants. This has resulted in what is called the heat island effect. The heat island effect describes the phenomenon whereby the mass of concrete, bitumen and hard surfaces in cities and built up areas absorbs and holds heat, making these areas up to 3oC hotter than surrounding natural areas during the day, and as much as 12oC hotter at night. This is significant in that this small amount of extra ambient air temperature can increase cooling costs within a building by as much as 10%, contributing to climate change through not only increased air temperatures, but also increased energy usage.

Green spaces are seen as key to reducing the heat island effect. Whilst trees are often seen as the most important green coolers due to the shade they provide, other plants and even lawns can play a very significant role in lowering ambient air temperatures – they do this by not absorbing and re-releasing large amounts of heat the way concrete does, and also through the natural process of evapotranspiration (water transpired from the leaves cools the air as it evaporates).

Green space has been shown to have very positive effects on people’s physical and mental health and the social well being within a community.

While there is no dispute as to the value of green space, where to fit it when space is at a premium becomes the problem. Green walls are the logical solution, but do they count as green space?

Green walls certainly do tick many of the boxes required of green space. The plants provide a cooling effect through both evapotranspiration and by shading the walls of the building. Being in the presence of plants tends to improve people’s moods which aids in improving mental health – people like to look at plants. By providing an attractive space, people tend to show greater respect and appreciation for an area, increasing social cohesion and even reducing crime.

The plants will be playing a role in improving air quality whether they are growing on the ground or up a wall.

With greater recognition of the value of green space, green walls are becoming increasingly important in playing a very significant role in providing green space in an otherwise concrete jungle – both indoors and out. In  Australia and overseas, having a green wall in a building will contribute to gaining a green rating for that building, which in turn can see higher financial returns on rent or sale.

There are of course some down sides to green walls. They are both more expensive to establish and more expensive to maintain than conventional green space. Greater care needs to be taken when choosing appropriate plants for the situation to ensure success of the green wall as it is a harsher environment than a garden bed tends to be. Most city councils around Australia are starting to incorporate green walls into their overall greening policies, in spite of these additional costs. When the value of land area in a city is incorporated into the cost analysis, the green wall starts to really stack up. Councils are also increasingly aware of the difficult to measure value of green space to the health and wellbeing of residents and workers. One report has indicated that up to 2 hectares of suitable external wall area currently exists in Melbourne which could host green walls. This area of conventional green space is not available so it would seem that green walls (and green roofs) are not only a logical but also perhaps an essential component to increasing green space in our concrete cities.

On a domestic scale, green walls are usually fairly small. Many different DIY systems are readily available to home gardeners. They do certainly play a role in increasing available garden space, especially for people living in units without access to ground area, or the increasingly common very small suburban blocks which do not have much in the way of garden space.

In this situation even a small green wall can play a very significant role in giving a person (s) access to green space within their living environment. These domestic green walls may not be making any significant contribution to overall green space of a city, but they are making a huge contribution to that person’s quality of life.

If you are considering a green wall for your home, it may pay to consult with a professional, or do your research to ensure you choose the right set up for you and the most suitable plants for your green wall. Domestic systems are often less complex than the large green walls on the sides of buildings, and do not always include watering systems so care needs to be taken to ensure hardy and appropriate plants are used. This may include ferns, bromeliads or hardy indoor foliage plants, like Little Phil™ Philodendron species ‘PHIL01’ PBR in a shady location or very hardy plants for a sunny spot.

Worth considering for green walls large or small are plants including compact forms of Liriopes such as Pink Pearl™ Liriope muscari ‘VS0001’ PBR, Amethyst™ Liriope muscari ‘LIRTP’ PBR or Just Right® Liriope muscari ‘LIRJ’ PBR. Compact Lomandras, such as Shara™ Lomandra fluvialtilis ‘ABU7’ PBR, and Tanika® Lomandra longifolia ‘LM300’ PBR do exceptionally well, and the beautiful weeping foliage of Tropic Cascade™ Lomandra hystrix ‘LHWP’ PBR is a real stand out in a green wall.

Plants with variegated foliage, such as Silverlawn™ Liriope muscari ‘LIRSS’ PBR or Lucky Stripe Lomandra hystrix ‘LMV200’ PBR will provide a slight colour contrast, but for an even bigger burst of colour you may want to add some red and purple foliage plants. Obsession™ Nandina domestica ‘SEIKA’ PBR and Little Ruby™ Alternanthera dentata ‘LRU30’ PBR will bring a green wall to life with their striking coloured foliage.

If you are looking for something a little different for your green wall you may want to consider Westringias such as Grey Box™ Westringia fruticosa‘WES04’ PBR that has beautiful grey foliage and white flowers, and is drought and wet feet tolerant, or perhaps Mundi™ Westringia fruticosa‘WES05’ PBR, a low growing ground cover form that grows well in green walls.

Having more plants providing green space in your life seems to be a very positive thing – whether they are growing in the ground or on a wall.

Be sure to always select plants that will work well in your region. For a list of our Top 10 Green Wall plants for your state or region

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Further Evidence that Chunky Mulches are Best

This Summer I had the chance to visit many mass planting projects around Australia, and the main thing I noticed was that some ground cover mulch types worked far better than others. These observations reminded me of research conducted at Yates, showing which mulches were good, and which ones were actually harmful. Some mulch types were actually shown to reduce the amount of water available for plants. Gardening Australia, who originally reported this information, were nice enough to let us recreate their article in this magazine, which you will find below. But before you read this article, you may remember, back in I wrote an article called “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly of Mulch”. In this article I showed how mulch with a high percentage of fines in it was causing problems with mass planting. (Mulch with lots of small particles below 2 to 3 mm in size).

In this article I talked about how ground cover mulch with lots of fines, had many problems, including how it helped cause root rot disease in numerous plant types, particularly in more humid climates. Mulch with lots of fines really restricts air flow around the crown of the plants, allowing root rot to more easily develop; whist chunky mulch has better air filled porosity around the plant’s crown, which helps inhibit root rot. Mulch with fines also made it much easier for weeds to invade, than did course grade chunky mulch. Weed seeds germinate much easier in mulch with lots of fines, as it acts like a soil, rather than a weed inhibitor.

Mulch with fines furthermore erodes easier and poorly composted mulch with fines causes nitrogen draw down, stealing nutrients from the soil. One of the main points of the Landscape Manager article explained how mulch with fines made less water available to plants than compared to chunky mulch. The research outlined in the following article, kindly supplied by Gardening Australia Magazine from their December 2005 issue, written by Kevin Handrick and taken from research conducted by Yates further proves the point that chunky type mulches make more water available for plants.

 Link to original article

Choosing The Right Lawn

Clients often rely on your judgement when deciding on a lawn variety. Get it right and your client will have years of lawn bliss, but if you get it wrong it can reflect badly on your business. Too often Landscapers use the same lawn type for all projects. Is this really giving your client what they want or need in a home lawn? On large commercial projects the stakes are even higher, and choosing the right lawn that fits all aspects should not be a gamble. What are the aspects that determine which lawn to use, and which turf is the right choice given certain parameters? There is no such thing as a miracle grass that works everywhere, so choose wisely.

Looks: This may sound superficial, but one of the main reasons people buy a certain lawn type is for the look, and satisfaction of what they believe will be the best darkest green lawn in the street. Soft Leaf Buffalo, Kikuyu, and Zoysia all make great looking lawns with appropriate care, but Couch scalps very badly when mown with regular home lawn maintenance. So for much of the time it simply looks untidy, so for this reason alone, Couch can be usually taken off the list for home lawns, unless the client is a real lawn enthusiast.

For commercial sporting lawns Couch does have a lot to offer, but for parks and amenity areas, it is this scalping that really lets Couch down, plus the fact that it browns of so quickly in winter. Some people like very broad leaf turf, in that case the good Buffalo types work well, but if a fine leaf is desired then Zoysia and Kikuyu types are best, or as a compromise the finer leaf Buffalo Sapphire.

Shade: This is a very critical selection criteria. All of these lawns will live in full sun. All lawns in the higher shade categories will also thrive in lower shade categories.

Maximum Shade Level

Up to 15% shade Kikuyu or Couch, or Blue Couch
Up to 40% shade Zoysia. Nara native turf or Empire Zoysia.

Up to 60% shade Palmetto, Sir Walter, and most other Buffalo types.

Up to 70% shade Sapphire Buffalo. Rated best in Dept. Primary Industry shade trials.

Up to 95% shade Isabella Lilly Turf (Liriope) between stepping stones, or Dwarf Mondo grass

Winter Colour: In Western Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Perth, and even inland Queensland; one of the biggest factors in choosing a lawn is winter colour. In this category, Kenda Kikuyu® wins hands down, but for shade and some other reasons, this turf will be ruled out for a number of situations, but ruled in for others. Palmetto Buffalo® is well known in the industry to have the best winter colour of the Buffalo types, and research backs this up.

But others such as Sapphire® and Sir Walter also have good winter colour. However, what most do not know is that a new turf called Nara Native Turf™ had better winter colour than all the Buffalo types in recent trials in Western Sydney. When fertilised in autumn and winter, all turf types other than Couch had good winter colour, with Kenda and Nara Native Zoysia turf having the best, followed by the good Buffalo types, and then Empire™ Zoysia. The Couch types all had poor winter colour.

Unfertilised the Kenda was the clear winner but still nowhere as good as the fertilised version, with the other types generally failing to impress without fertiliser. Fertilised in autumn only most of the Buffalo types looked good as well. So based on this research, it is so important to fertilise your lawn with slow release fertiliser in autumn and winter. In fact spring green up in this trial was very good for all grasses that were fertilised in winter with slow release. These days, most good lawn types have recipes for lawn care and fertilising recommendations on their websites.

Time of year for Installation: In spring, summer, and the first half of Autumn, all turf types will establish well. Except for the warm parts of Queensland or similar climates, the best winter establishing lawn is Kikuyu, with the most winter active being Kenda Kikuyu. Couch and Zoysia types are very slow to establish and are best not transplanted in Winter where possible. If they have to be, keep the couch well watered until it strikes which can take up to a couple of months. With Zoysia, it will not root out till the weather warms up, so either do not transplant it in winter, or top-dress it lightly, rubbing the mix into the grass so a third of the leaves are showing. In coastal Queensland and Northern NSW these turf types will establish adequately in winter. Buffalo types will establish slowly in winter in Sydney and Perth, but in Adelaide and Melbourne, topdressing is recommended, or better still waiting till spring, or choosing Kikuyu instead where possible.

Soil and Preparation: If the soil is poor and compacted, no turf will thrive. It is best to have a non-compactable rich in nutrient soil if possible, but sometimes that is not always easy to achieve. In Sandy Soils for home lawns, Zoysia types stand out as the best, followed by Buffalo, then Couch and Kikuyu. For sporting facilities where maintenances is good, and water is available, then couch and Kikuyu are often the best choices, but in a home lawn, unless well maintained, they rarely cut it. In colder regions such as Victoria, Kikuyu does perform well in sandy soils. In hard compacted clay soils, Kikuyu seems to do best, but that is only because it grows so fast. Buffalo and Zoysia also do well if they are treated at least 3 to 4 times per year with slow release fertiliser. Couch will need 5 applications per year to perform well in very poor soils.

Maintenance: If this is your client’s main concern, then Zoysia types are clearly the best choice. On average they need one third the mowing and edging of Kikuyu, and about half that of couch and Buffalo turf. Empire Zoysia, being the ultimate low nutrient lawn can prosper on just one fertiliser application of slow release each autumn. Buffalo is easier to edge than Kikuyu and Couch around gardens. If the site has lots of gardens, then Zoysia and Buffalo win hands down. Hint: If the grass grows into gardens, than Fusilade will kill the grass without hurting plants. Do not use on Poacea ornamental grasses, as it is a grass killer. Lomandra, Liriope, and Mondo are not grasses, so it will not hurt them. Read the label, and use where approved.

Dogs: Man’s best friend, and a lawn’s worst enemy. The fast growing Kenda Kikuyu is the clear winner here, unless it is a shady lawn. Kikuyu is what is used on race tracks. Only use Buffalo if it is shady, and then advise the client to give parts of the lawn a rest at times, particularly for medium to big dogs. Fertilise lots.

General Wear: All the lawns are good with general wear. Just fertilise well and regularly if wear is an issue.

Coastal: Nara Native Turf is the clear choice where lawns get bombarded by salt laden winds. Nara has 4 to 5 times the salt tolerance of most other lawns, and had the highest rating from the Department of Primary industries research of any lawn type discussed. If it is more than 40% shade use a Buffalo.

Weed Invasion and pests: Zoysia and Buffalo are the best at out competing weeds. Buffalo however is easily invaded with Kikuyu, and cannot be sprayed out. Zoysia can have Kikuyu taken out by a selective herbicide. Couch and Blue Couch are easily invaded by most weeds. If your client is in a region badly affected by Army Worm, then all lawns are susceptible, except Zoysia which has much more resistance.

Region and use: In Queensland and Northern NSW the clear star turf type is Zoysia, accept for shade where it is Buffalo. In the rest of Coastal Australia, Buffalo and Zoysia are neck and Neck, but Buffalo is still more popular mainly due to tradition, and the fact that it grows quicker for the turf farmer, so they are more inclined to grow it over Zoysia. In Melbourne and Adelaide, Kikuyu remains a strong contender though. In inland Australia, Kikuyu seems to rein supreme, due to its good recovery from drought. Couch and Kikuyu dominate sports turf, except in Coastal Queensland where high humidity damages Kikuyu, so Couch is king there. On the roadsides, Zoysia is now the lawn of choice, where it is usually only mown twice per year. In drainage channels, Zoysia copes by far the best with wet feet, and needs less mowing.

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Chemicals and Fertilisers

I have contacted various companies and asked for information regarding new and old favourite chemicals, fertilisers, wetting agents and other lawn and garden consumables. Interestingly, there seems to be a real growth in combination products, such as fertiliser-chemical combos, or fertiliser-wetting agent combos, and other. Following is a summary of the information. To find out detailed information about the products, contact the various suppliers, or look at their web sites. Read the label, and always follow that information when using these products.

New products

Herbicides

Prolan – An herbicide for the long-term pre-emergent control of many weeds in amenity plantings, nurseries and garden beds. It can be sprayed over desirable ornamental species without any phytotoxic effect and provides residual control of weeds for up to 8 months. Visit Nuturf for more information.

Arsenal Xpress – A pre + post emergent herbicide giving long residual control (up to 6 months) of various annual and perennial weeds around buildings, commercial, industrial and public service areas, right of way and waste land, away from non-target turf and vegetation. Visit Nuturf for more information.

Destiny – Active Constituent 100g/kg Idosulfuron-Methyl-Sodium
Post emergent control of Onion weed, White Clover, Ryegrass, and Guildford Grass (Onion Grass) in kikuyu and couch. Visit Globeaustralia for more information.

Monument – Active Constituent 750gm/kg Trifoxysulfuron Sodium- Granule
Control of Wintergrass, Ryegrass, Clover, Burr Medic and Nutgrass in couch, and also kikuyu suppression. Visit Globeaustralia for more information.

Spearhead – Active Constituent 20g/L Clopyralid,15g/L Diflufenican, 300g/L MCPA- Liquid. Effective broadleaf control in most turf species, including SOME Buffalo varieties. Visit Globeaustralia for more information.

Coliseum Herbicide – the new solution for Winter grass control.
Registered for the control of Winter grass (Poa annua) in Couch. Visit Turf Culture for more information.

Pesticides

Brigade Granules – Active C: Bifenthrin; Easy application being a granule, giving a broad spectrum of insect control. Visit Globeaustralia for more information.

Merit Turf – Active C: 200g/L Imadacloprid- This liquid is excellent for Landscapers and landscape managers. There is both a turf and ornamental use on the label. Visit Globeaustralia for more information.

Brigade T&O – A low odour liquid, cost effective control for a huge range of insects in the turf and ornamental market. Brigade T&O is in a suspension concentrate formulation with no harsh solvents, thereby providing excellent safety on all desirable plant species. Visit Nuturf for more information.

Fertilisers

Scotts® Landscaper PRO – Lawn Builder™ Regular 8kg Feed & Forget – No Need to Water In. One application provides season long healthier and greener lawns. It feeds continuously without a surge growth and being slow release, it is safer for the environment, with minimal leaching. Also available in 20kg. Visit Scottsasiapacific for more information.

Scotts® Landscaper PRO – Lawn Builder™ New Lawns & Repairs 8kg Feed & Forget – Starter Formula. This product has been specially formulated for newly established lawns. Its Buffered Nitrogen won’t harm tender young grass plants or new turf. It has Ideal Phosphorus levels to encourage strong root development. Visit Scottsasiapacific for more information.

Scotts® Landscaper PRO – Osmocote® All Garden Fertiliser 10kg Controlled Release Fertiliser, feeding for 6 months. This is a multi-purpose fertiliser for planting out of trees, shrubs and bedding plants. It is low in phosphorus so it is suitable for Australian natives, and has added Iron (Fe) for good leaf colour. Visit Scottsasiapacific for more information.

Sierraform GT – Its unique dual effect combines both slow-release nitrogen and slow-release potassium. The strength of slow-release potassium is that it’s released throughout the effective period, whenever the grass plant needs it. Leaf analysis has shown a significant difference between Sierraform GT and fertilisers that do not contain slow-release potassium. The result is a stronger grass plant that’s more resistant to cold, heat, drought and intensive wear – all year round. Visit Scottsasiapacific for more information.

NutriSmart – NutriSmart is an organic (BFA certified) crop nutrition technology that can dramatically reduce the need for chemical fertiliser through increasing fertiliser use efficiency. NutriSmart is able to fix Nitrogen from the atmosphere and unlock reserves of Potassium and Phosphorus in the soil. Plants and turf grown with NutriSmart are generally healthier and establish quicker than plants grown using chemical fertilisers. Visit Paton for more information.

Ammo N – Ammo N is a liquid form of the fertiliser Ammonium Nitrate without the licensing restrictions of the granular product. Ammonium Nitrate is the premium source of Nitrogen as it provides both quick release and longer lasting release. Available in 20L. Visit Paton for more information.

Combination products

TX10 – TX 10 is a multi-source organic fertiliser consisting of 10 key components to soil fertility. The main constituents include stable humus, seaweed extract, vegetable extract, and proteins, which are all used to increase cation exchange capacity and better utilise applied nutrients without clogging pore spaces. The addition of a wetting agent helps reduce soil hydrophobicity. Visit Nuturf for more information.

Smart Start – Smart Start is a unique formulation which provides the best possible start for tress, potted plants and turf. The formulation consists of proven eco-fertilisers (Nutrismart) organic complex, + Methylene Urea and water storage crystals (Aquasorb). Smart Start is an ideal pre-planting / transplanting supplement for plants and turf. Once incorporated into the soil and irrigated, it immediately goes to work by holding water and nutrients in the root zone for optimal absorption, enhancing establishment and growth. Visit Nuturf for more information.

Ronstar Plus Starter – A combination of pre-emergence herbicide for the control of crowsfoot, summergrass, wintergrass, and creeping oxalis, and a starter fertiliser with a suitable N:P:K balance to enhance turf establishment, from sprigging and turf recovery following renovation or dormancy. Visit Nuturf for more information.

Scotts® Landscaper PRO –Hydraflo®2 Soil Wetting Agent 8kg Concentrated Formula – Low Application Rates. Hydraflo2 helps water and nutrients to penetrate deeply and reduces water run-off, whilst increasing water retention without decreasing air filled porosity. It also facilitates drainage from wet areas and promotes deeper root growth so that less water is needed, and best of all it is safe for use on all ornamental plants including turfgrasses.

Oxa pro – Active C: Controlled NPK fertiliser + Oxadiazon for pre-emergent weed control. Visit Globeaustralia for more information.

Pendi Pro – Active C: Economical NPK fertiliser + Pendimethalin for pre-emergent weed control. Visit Globeaustralia for more information.

Wetting Agents

Stamina Rescue – for fast curative ability, Stamina Rescue provides a unique and ultra fast delivery system, which has proven to rewet hard to wet areas. Visit Nuturf for more information.

Stamina G – long term granular wetting agent which can provide continuous moisture management and re-wetting for up to 3 months. Stamina G is an easy to spread granular formulation which is ideal for use in turf and ornamental situations. Visit Nuturf for more information.

Aquaturf Liquid or Granules wetting agent that is ideal for; increasing infiltration without harming delicate turf roots, and creating an even wetting to maximise irrigation efficiency. They improving water holding to prevent dry patch for longer and reduce leachate of valuable organic substances, as well as draining wet soils to return air to pore spaces. Visit KBAdams or Living Turf for more information.

Aquaturf Forte Granules have the same benefits as Aquaturf with added water holding capabilities with the addition of SUSTAINgold, for extra water retention. Visit KBAdams or Living Turf for more information.

Restore Granules – Slow release wetting agent granules, which are excellent for landscape use. Gives control of water repellence problems in soil. Visit Globeaustralia for more information.

Dispatch – Dispatch is an excellent liquid wetting agent which can be left on the turf without irrigation, with no burn potential. Visit Globeaustralia for more information.

Old favourites

Herbicides

Country 360 Aquatic glyphosate herbicide – available in 5 and 20 L. Amidst a global glyphosate shortage, Nuturf Australia has good supply of Country 360 glyphosate which is aquatically registered and will provide excellent non-selective control of all unwanted weeds. Visit Nuturf for more information.

Millennium – existing product – A broadleaf weed herbicide that delivers outstanding efficacy from three powerful systemic active ingredients that combines rapid response and overall effectiveness. Also presents significant safety improvements over other products, including a non-ester formulation, outstanding turf safety and low poison scheduling. Visit Nuturf for more information.

Sierraron® G – Pre and Post emergent herbicide for use on landscape perimeters only. Apply to a weed free surface to ensure best results by preventing growth. Young, germinating weeds are killed. DO NOT apply within 4 weeks of transplanting. DO NOT apply to annual beds. DO NOT apply to lawns and turf you do not want to kill. There are more DO NOTS so read the label carefully. Visit Scottsasiapacific for more information.

Methar Tri-Kombi – Herbicide containing three actives to selectively control a large range of broadleaf weeds in turf areas, ( not to be used on buffalo). Weeds controlled: Clovers, creeping oxalis, pearlwort, chickweed, mouse-eared chickweed, lambs tongue, dandelion, catsear, fat hen, mallow, staggerweeds fumitory, bindii, cobblers peg, wireweed. Visit KBAdams or Living Turf for more information.

Ronstar G – Active Constituent 20g/kg Oxadiazon- Granule
Pre-emergent control of Crowsfoot, Wintergrass, Creeping Oxalis and Summergrass in warm season turf. Visit Globeaustralia for more information.

Poa Pro – Active Constituent 500g/L Propyzamide- Liquid. Selective Control of Wintergrass in couch. Visit Globeaustralia for more information.

Pesticides

MaxGuard® 2G Granular Insecticide – Apply when immediate control of problem insects is required. Controls the following target pests: Lawn armyworm; Sod webworm; Cutworm; Argentine stem weevil adults; African black beetle adults; Billbug adults; Ants including Stinging ants. Also available in combination with slow release fertiliser – MaxGuard NPK. Visit Scottsasiapacific for more information.

Procide® Contact Insecticide/Miticide – Apply Procide as a preventative treatment when applied at regular intervals or as a knockdown treatment to control existing pests. Procide is safe to apply to plant foliage with minimal risk of burning. It controls the following target pests: Two Spotted mite; Aphids, Whitefly; Caterpillars & loopers, Mealy bug; Plague thrips and Cutworm.

Crown® Systemic Insecticide – Crown is totally systemic and also acts on contact with target pests. Crown is relatively safe on most beneficial insects – 300x less toxic to bees via contact and 2000x less toxic via oral than its closest competitor. Controls the following target pests: Rose aphid, Whitefly, Citrus mealy bug, Azalea lace bug, Greenhouse thrips, Plague thrips, Lilly Pilly psyllids, Scale insects, Leafhoppers, Fungus gnat, Shore fly. Visit Scottsasiapacific for more information.

Fertilisers

Poly Plus 24-2-9 – A balanced N:P:K fertiliser with controlled release nitrogen, providing initial green-up without surge growth. Visit Nuturf for more information.

Agriform®Planting Tablets – Agriform planting tablets supply all of the major nutrients needed by most plants for up to 12 months. These tablets break down slowly through the action of soil bacteria. Sierrablen® Flora is recommended for larger plants. Visit Scottsasiapacific for more information.

Garden or Large Scale – Maintenance + Planting. An 8 to 9 month slow release fertiliser with a Low P analysis for general purpose year round fertilisation of flowering trees, shrubs and borders (including Australian natives). Visit Scottsasiapacific for more information.

Scotts Sierrablen Sportsturf + Iron (25-1-8) Resin coated fertilizer slow release fertilizer that will release nutrients to turf areas for 4-5 months. Visit KBAdams or Living Turf for more information.

Scotts Super Sportsturf + Iron (27-1-3) Blend of upfront nutrients and slow release, will release nutrients for 2-3 months. Visit KBAdams or Living Turf for more information.

Paton No.17 Lawn Food – A lawn food that has been used and trusted for generations. No.17 now has an added wetting agent for increased efficiency. Visit Paton for more information.

Combination products

Ronstar Plus Starter – A combination of pre-emergence herbicide for the control of crowsfoot, summergrass, wintergrass, and creeping oxalis, and a starter fertiliser with a suitable N:P:K balance to enhance turf establishment from sprigging and turf recovery following renovation or dormancy. Visit Nuturf for more information.

Dicot® III Post-emergent Herbicide + NPK Fertiliser – This is a combined fertiliser, broard leaf weed control product for turf. Do not use on bent grass greens, buffalo grass, carpet grass or dichondra. Visit Scottsasiapacificfor more information.

Other Products

Gypsum, Lime and Dolomite Granules – ideal for correcting soil deficiencies and now in an easy to spread granular formulation. Visit Nuturf for more information.

Banrot® 80G Broad Spectrum Fungicide. Incorporate directly into the growing medium or broadcast over the soil surface with a granule spreader and irrigate within several days. Controls soil borne diseases of ornamental plants, including damping off and root and stem rot diseases caused by the following fungi: Pythium, Phytophthora, Rhizoctonia and Thielaviopsis (Chalara). Visit Scottsasiapacific for more information.

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